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  <front>
    <journal-meta />
    <article-meta>
      <title-group>
        <article-title>mendations for Climbers</article-title>
      </title-group>
      <contrib-group>
        <contrib contrib-type="author">
          <string-name>Iustina Ivanova</string-name>
          <email>iivanova@unibz.it</email>
          <xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff0">0</xref>
          <xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff1">1</xref>
        </contrib>
        <contrib contrib-type="author">
          <string-name>Marina Andrić</string-name>
          <xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff0">0</xref>
          <xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff1">1</xref>
        </contrib>
        <contrib contrib-type="author">
          <string-name>Francesco Ricci</string-name>
          <email>fricci@unibz.it</email>
          <xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff0">0</xref>
          <xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff1">1</xref>
        </contrib>
        <aff id="aff0">
          <label>0</label>
          <institution>Environments (ComplexRec) Joint Workshop @ RecSys 2021</institution>
        </aff>
        <aff id="aff1">
          <label>1</label>
          <institution>Free University of Bozen-Bolzano</institution>
          ,
          <addr-line>Piazza Università 1, 39100, Bolzano</addr-line>
          ,
          <country country="IT">Italy</country>
        </aff>
      </contrib-group>
      <pub-date>
        <year>2021</year>
      </pub-date>
      <abstract>
        <p>Climbing is a popular sport and recreational activity. Unfortunately, there is a lack of technologies for supporting climbers in choosing what climbing route to climb next. We introduce a project aimed at developing a Climbing Recommender System for suggesting routes that are suited for training and practicing sport climbing. We model a climber by relying on both explicit and implicit feedback. Implicit feedback is acquired by an automatic activity recognition component (in climbing gyms), while explicit feedback is acquired by means of a mobile application. We also present a recommendation approach based on the prediction of the subjective evaluation of climbing routes' dificulty. In fact, often climbers perceive the dificulty of a route diferently from the oficial grade. The prediction method is based on the analysis of how climbers deviate their assessment of routes' dificulty from the oficial dificulty grade, and it generates explanations for the predictions.</p>
      </abstract>
      <kwd-group>
        <kwd>recommender system</kwd>
        <kwd>climbing</kwd>
        <kwd>knowledge-based</kwd>
        <kwd>explanation</kwd>
      </kwd-group>
    </article-meta>
  </front>
  <body>
    <sec id="sec-1">
      <title>1. Introduction</title>
      <sec id="sec-1-1">
        <title>Climbing guidebooks provide climbing enthusiasts with</title>
        <p>important information about available climbing routes.</p>
      </sec>
      <sec id="sec-1-2">
        <title>Actually, new climbing routes are continuously devel</title>
        <p>and this large set of alternative routes makes it dificult
for any climber, either novice or expert, to make the right
choice. There is a clear need for Climbing Recommender
Systems (CRS) that could support climbers in choosing
the most suitable next routes. Ideally, such a system
should manage all the aspects considered by climbers
in their choices. The recommended routes should be:
suitable for training, challenging but within their
capabilities, enjoyable, compatible with the contextual
situation (weather conditions), and good for a group of
climbers. Building such a system requires knowledge
about climbers’ preferences, their physical and technical
level, the group’s characteristics, and, importantly, the
climbing routes’ characteristics, such as, dificulty grade,
livered by means of a well-designed human-computer
(mobile) interaction where climbers can leave explicit
feedback about the routes they climbed. Moreover,
sensor data (body and device sensors) should be used to
implicitly detect climbers’ activities and performance.
ing are at an early stage of development, and furthermore,
nEvelop-O
3rd Edition of Knowledge-aware and Conversational Recommender
Systems (KaRS) &amp; 5th Edition of Recommendation in Complex
profiling of climbers, and then we introduce a CRS for</p>
        <p>Unfortunately, current sensing technologies for climb- yet been exploited in sport climbing, as there is a lack of
location, and safety level. This can be acquired and de- a knowledge-rich user and item profile and then
recomoutdoor climbing routes suggestion.
2. Routes Recommendation
assigned by the climber to the route. This prediction can
be used to recommend to the climber routes that are in
the right dificulty range for her. In order to address this
task, we have applied data mining techniques to explicit
feedback data collected by means of the Vertical-Life
mobile app where climbers can rate, grade, and comment
on routes that they have climbed. Our work is motivated
by Draper [24], who reports that climbers often have
diferent opinions about the dificulty grade of the same
route. The app ofers climbers the possibility to express
their disagreement with the ‘oficial’ climbing grade of a
route, as it is given in the guidebook. We have adopted a
knowledge-based approach to understanding the reasons
of such disagreements. We have compared the
predictions, for the subjective evaluations of routes’ dificulty,
generated by a regression model, based on features aimed
at capturing why climbers disagree with the oficial grade,
to a standard collaborative filtering algorithm.</p>
        <p>We describe the results we have obtained in developing a
knowledge-based CRS. Recommendations are generated
by understanding users’ characteristics (profile), which
are obtained by semi-automatically analyzing their
behavior [19]. We consider two types of sources of
climberrelated knowledge, which are acquired by means of either
implicit or explicit feedback [20]. Implicit feedback is
collected through sensor data analysis, in order to
automatically detect the climber’s performed activities, i.e.,
which route was climbed and how the climber performed
(e.g., the duration, or the efort made). Explicit feedback
relates instead to climbers’ manual input, typically
describing the experience of climbing a route, such as, the
safety of the route, or the perceived dificulty. In order
to collect this type of data, we are collaborating with
Vertical-Life (www.vertical-life.info), which ofers a mo- 2.1. Route Grade Prediction
bile application for climbers. We plan to augment their We focus our investigation on ascents performed on
application with recommendation technologies. routes located in mountains and crags in the lead style;</p>
        <p>Related to implicit feedback, we have developed some however, the approach described below can be extended
initial solutions and technologies for activity detection, to ascents performed in climbing gyms and other
climbwhich are currently designed only for indoor lead climb- ing disciplines, such as bouldering.
ing. We have employed a ‘smart quickdraw sensor’ [21]. The data set of climbers’ entries into the mobile app
A standard quickdraw is a piece of climbing equipment about their ascents is summarized in Table 1. The data set
used by climbers to allow the climbing rope to run freely is restricted to the most frequently climbed route grades.
through protection such as a bolt anchors, hence it is Grades are represented with integers ranging from 6 (5a)
used for securing the climber at a specific point on the to 22 (7c). Observed deviations of climbers’ grades with
climbing route. A smart quickdraw is a regular one aug- respect to routes’ oficial grades range from -3 to 3. It is
mented with an accelerometer. The movements of the important to note that, on average, the climber’s grade
rope, used for securing the climber, are propagated to the coincides with route’s oficial grade in 92% of ascents.
quickdraw. Then, they are detected by the sensor and
sent wirelessly to a computer for data analysis. By using
this ‘smart quickdraw sensor’, we were able to detect with Table 1
an accuracy of 93% the activity of ‘rope pulling’, which Data set of climbers’ ascents description. ’% climber grades’
happens shortly after the climber finishes an ascent and raenfeerxsptliocitthgerapdeerceevnatlaugaetioofnatshcaetndtsifewrshferroemththeecloimficibaelrosngea.ve
when she removes the rope from the wall. Recognizing
rope pulling is instrumental in measuring the number of Outdoor climbs
ascents made on a line equipped with this sensor, and it # climbs 157,576
can also be employed to distinguish beginners from ex- # climbers 2,624
pert climbers [22]. More sophisticated data analysis has # routes 10,738
also shown that the energy of the quickdraw movement % climber grades 8%
can be used for climber’s performance measurement. In
addition to this, we employed video cameras to detect The first personalized grade prediction method, which
when the climber is lowered to the ground after her as- we call ‘knowledge-based’ uses a linear regression model,
cent is finished [ 23]. We plan to adopt a similar solution for which we generated features representing
climbersalso for outdoor climbing. routes interactions. The assumption is that the oficial</p>
        <p>Explicit feedback data, includes instead the subjective dificulty of the routes, as defined by the route setters may
evaluations of ascended routes’ dificulty grades, which also depend on their skills, while a climber’s perceived
are often registered by climbers after they have climbed dificulty of the routes may depend on the climber’s
physa route. By using this data we aim at predicting the sub- ical level and on contextual conditions (e.g., the season).
jectively perceived dificulty of a route, which would be Therefore, we included the time factor, as the outdoor
routes can change with the time (rocks might deteriorate, the climber-assigned grade of a route coincides with the
equipment might break): we generate similar features oficial grade of the route. Hence, predicting correctly
which take into consideration the specified time inter- the grades assigned by climbers when they deviate from
val limit. As a result, we predict the climber’s perceived the oficial grade is challenging.
grade as a linear dependent variable from the identified It is also worth noting that a major disadvantage of
features. the SVD rating prediction model is that users and items</p>
        <p>Assume that we have a target climber  , and a route  . are here represented in a joint latent factor space, which
We are interested in the prediction ⋀(,   , ) of how is hardly useful for explaining the predictions [26, 27]. In
climber  would grade the route  at a particular point in fact, in this domain it is pivotal to properly convince the
time  . The predictive features that we have introduced climber about the reliability of the provided information:
are as follows: there are important safety issues to consider.</p>
        <p>We have measured the root-mean-square error (RMSE)
•  ( ) : the ‘oficial’ route dificulty grade. of the proposed models (linear regression
knowledge• ( , ) : given the grade assessments of climbers based and SVD based collaborative filtering) and
comwho previously climbed the target route, before pared them to the baseline. The results show that both
time  , we compute the average deviation of these models give a lower error than the baseline, meaning
grades from the route’s oficial grade  ( ) . that they are capable of correctly using climbers’
feed•   ( , ) : this feature is a variant of feature back about dificulty level of routes (see Table 2). In the
( , ) such that only the final year and a half of table, ‘per user RMSE’ indicates the RMSE computed for
data collection is included for feature computa- each user and then averaged, while ‘RMSE’ is the global
tion. The feature is meant to capture change in average of all prediction errors.
the dificulty of an ascent that may result from
deterioration of the rock over time due to frequent Table 2
climbing activity (the so-called polished routes) Performance of perceived dificulty grade prediction on the
or recent maintenance work. data set of climbers’ ascents on outdoor routes.
•   (,  ( ), ) : given the grade assess- Model Outdoor routes
ments of the target climber  , before time  , for RMSE per user RMSE
routes of the same oficial grade  ( ) , this
feature expresses the mean deviation of these baseline 0.339 0.191 (± 0.306)
grades from  ( ) within a three-month pe- Lin. Regression KB 0.317 0.176 (± 0.284)
riod in the final year of data collection. This fea- SVD CF 0.322 0.174 (± 0.284)
ture is supposed to capture the influence of
environmental conditions on a climber’s perception of
route dificulty. For example, climbing outdoors 2.2. Explanations and GUI
in the summer months is typically considered as
harder than climbing in the spring.</p>
      </sec>
      <sec id="sec-1-3">
        <title>The knowledge-based model is employed to prototype</title>
        <p>a novel GUI of the Vertical-Life climbing application,</p>
        <p>As we have noted above, climbers do not often devi- which in addition to the oficial grade shows the
preate with their subjective evaluations of route dificulty dicted climber’s perceived grade. Additionally, we have
from the oficial evaluations. Hence, a strong baseline employed the coeficients of the linear regression model
method for predicting  (,  , ) is actually using di- to generate explanations to the climbers for the predicted
rectly  ( ) . grades of the selected routes. The linear regression model</p>
        <p>In addition to this baseline prediction method, we com- along with its coeficients is shown in the following
equapare the predictions generated by the above-mentioned tion:
linear regression knowledge-based model with those ⋀
computed by a standard collaborative filtering (CF) al-   (,  , ) = 0.027 + 0.998 ⋅  ( ) + 0.410 ⋅ ( , )
gorithm. In the application of collaborative filtering, we + 1.051 ⋅   ( , ) + 0.279 ⋅   (,  ( ), )
model the grade prediction task as a special rating predic- Clearly the oficial grade  ( ) has the largest
imtion problem, where the rating of a route is the deviation portance, but also the other features, related to the
gradof the climber’s grade from the oficial grade, namely: ing behavior of the climbers, do have important weights
 (,  , ) −  ( ) . We use matrix factorization, in the model. The explanation sentence, which is
comnamely singular value decomposition (SVD), to generate menting why the predicted grade is diferent from the
such predictions [25]. We note that the rating matrix oficial grade, is generated by considering, case by case,
is in this case very sparse (0.994 sparsity) and with a the features that, for a given route and climber
combinaprevalence of 0 ratings: these are the evaluations where tion, have the largest positive (or negative) impact on the
predicted grade deviation. Such an explanation may be
useful if a climber would like to better understand why
the predicted dificulty of the route is diferent from the
oficial grade. Potentially, this can lead to fewer accidents,
as the climber may choose routes that better match her
capabilities.</p>
        <p>Figure 1 shows an explanation example sentence given
in the prototype app to the climber when she points to
the perceived grade column by touching the screen on
route 04.</p>
      </sec>
    </sec>
    <sec id="sec-2">
      <title>3. Discussion and Conclusion</title>
      <sec id="sec-2-1">
        <title>There are some clear limitations of the proposed CRS</title>
        <p>that we plan to address in the future.</p>
        <p>Firstly, we have developed sensor data analysis
technologies for automatic activity recognition in climbing
gyms, but we have not yet developed a similar solution
for outdoor climbing. Moreover, knowledge extracted
from low-level sensor data, e.g., the average speed of a
climber during an ascent, has not yet been integrated
with the explicit feedback collected from the mobile
application. In fact, one related research question is how
the climber’s skill level acquired by the implicit feedback
can be used to improve the subjective route dificulty
grade predictions that we have computed by relying only
on explicit feedback.</p>
        <p>Secondly, as we have mentioned in the introduction,
climbing route recommendations may support diverse
users’ needs. One important aspect is to identify routes
that fit a specified training plan or to give explicit
feedback to climbers about their ‘mistakes’ in trying the
wrong routes. In fact, the training aspect is very
important, as many climbers find that being able to track
and achieve gradual progress is a crucial motivation for
them. One possible approach to this problem is trying
to intelligently revise or complete an existing climber’s
training program [28, 29, 30, 31], which the climber
typically stores in the app.</p>
        <p>Thirdly, the implemented explanation component can
be improved in order to give a more convincing
explanation, not only of the predicted dificulty, but also of
the recommended route [32]. Moreover, for motivational
and training purposes, climbers sometimes repeat the
routes which they tried, and specific explanations should
be generated in these cases [33]. For instance, the
system may argue: ‘This lead climbing route was climbed
by you with 3 stops, try it again with fewer stops this
time’. In fact, the specific rationale of a recommendation
should be made clear to the climber. As a matter of fact,
some routes are more enjoyable and should be
recommended for climbers’ satisfaction; other routes are more
important for training and motivation; other routes are
relevant because they may better satisfy the needs of the
group of climbers the target user belongs to.</p>
        <p>Finally, we must properly evaluate the proposed
system prototype, and understand whether such a CRS
would be suitable and interesting for climbers. For this
purpose, we have created an online survey [34] to collect
climbers’ opinions on the proposed CRS.</p>
        <p>In conclusion, in this paper, we have presented raw
components and preliminary results that will be
integrated into a novel CRS. We want to create a rich
knowledge-based climber’s profile taking into
consideration climber’s preferences, current physical level,
behavior and skills. Such knowledge should be extracted
from log data of the interaction of climbers with the
routes that they have tried and evaluated. By better
exploiting the bulk of knowledge contained in electronic
guidebooks and climbers’ diaries, we aim at increasing
climbers’ satisfaction but also their safety, as climbers
will be supported to choose routes that are more aligned
with their skills and expectations.</p>
      </sec>
    </sec>
    <sec id="sec-3">
      <title>Acknowledgments</title>
      <p>This work has been partly supported by the project
“Sensors and data for the analysis of sports activities
(SALSA)”, funded by the EFRE-FESR programme
20142020 (CUP: I56C19000110009). The authors thank
Andrea Janes, Ben Lepesant and the Vertical-Life (https:
//www.vertical-life.info/) company for the data provided
for this research.
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